Country info for backpacking in Colombia

Although there is a certain amount of violence in remote areas, the current government has increased its presence in the countryside and in all major tourist areas, so whereas in the past travel might have been risky, this is no longer the case except in the areas of known guerrilla presence. Traveling in Colombia is definitely worthwhile. From Bogota, with a temperate climate 2,600 m (8530 ft) above sea level and at a constant temperature of 19 degrees Celsius, a drive of one or two hours North, South, East or West can take you to landscapes which are as diverse as they are beautiful. To the East are the oriental plains which stretch out far beyond the horizon with little modulation. To the North are the more rugged contours of the higher Andean region. To the South the weather is sub-tropical and has flora and fauna concomitant with this, and to the West you can find the Magdalena River valley and its hot weather. Colombia is one of the equatorial countries of the world, but unique in its extreme topography and abundance of water.

Climate

The climate is tropical along coast and eastern plains; cold in the highlands; periodic droughts. Colombia is an equatorial country, so there are no seasons in the common sense of the word. Temperatures do not vary much throughout the year. What Colombians normally refer to as the winter is the rainy season. Cities such as Bogotá, Tunja, and Pasto have been known to reach temperatures under 0 degrees Celsius, so if you are sensitive to cold weather be prepared.

Terrain

Flat coastal lowlands, central highlands, high Andes Mountains, eastern lowland plains Natural hazards: highlands subject to volcanic eruptions; occasional earthquakes. Recent volcanic disaster occurred in Armero, 1985. 25,000 people were buried by lahars that the Nevado del Ruiz produced. Highest point: Pico Cristobal Colon 5,775 m (18950 ft) of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. The mountain is the world's highest coastal range. note: nearby Pico Simon Bolivar has the same elevation

History

Colombia became independent from Spain in 1819. It was one of the five countries liberated by Simon Bolivar (the others being Ecuador, Venezuela, Peru and Bolivia). Colombia, Ecuador, Venezuela and Panama then formed the first Republic of Colombia. Ecuador and Venezuela declared their independence from Colombia in 1830. Panama declared its independence from Colombia in 1903 with the support of the United States of America. A 40-year communist insurgent campaign to overthrow the Colombian Government escalated during the 1990s, under girded in part by funds from the drug trade. Although the violence is deadly and large swaths of the rural countryside are under guerrilla influence, the movement lacks the military strength or popular support necessary to overthrow the government. Illegal anti-insurgent paramilitary groups have grown to be several thousand strong in recent years, challenging the insurgents for control of territory and illicit industries such as the drug trade and also the government's ability to exert its dominion over rural areas. While Bogotá continues to try to negotiate a settlement, neighboring countries worry about the violence spilling over their borders.

Colombia has suffered from a terrible reputation as a dangerous and violent country and it is. However, in the last few years safety has improved in a certain way. Colombia is relatively safe compared with the Congo or Iraq, but keep an eye on your surroundings. Tourists will face problems if they decide just to fool around in cities. Of course it pays to think safe, just as you would in any other large metropolitan city and even more so here because of the extra violence factor of the guerrillas. To discover the forest, ask somebody to stay with you. Walk relatively free during the day, but during night take precautions and from time to time observe who's around you. Normally the people who steal look awful, so be cautious when a stranger who looks messy come near you! According to a 2001 study conducted by the Hiscox Group, Colombia has the largest percentage of Americans kidnapped in foreign countries. One should be aware of this when traveling, and therefore avoid being alone at all times.

Guerrillas

Colombia's civil war is not over yet, although the conflicts are more common in the rural areas. It is not accurate to say that it is over, if you say so in front of a guerrilla follower it is an automatic death sentence in most of cases. There was an agreement in 2005 with the government which resulted in the disarmament of 80% of the paramilitaries, however the FARC and ELN guerrillas are still fully operational, as they still hide an enormous arsenal in the high mountains. These guerrillas, however, operate mainly in the rural areas, and as long as you stay in any of the big cities, you should be safe. River police, highway police, newspapers, and fellow travelers can be a useful source of information. (Note that the native pronunciation of guerrilla is "gair-EE-ya", not the English expression "guh-RILL-a".)

Crime

The crime rate in Colombia has been significantly reduced since its peak in 1992, however, major cities in Colombia have very high crime rates, but if you just take some usual precautions you should be fine. In the downtown areas of most cities it is not rare to encounter problems and it is very important to exercise extreme caution in the less developed parts of the urban regions. If you want to take a taxi, ask for it using a phone service-- it costs the same and your call will be answered rapidly. If you want to travel around the country you should research the areas you intend to visit and contract a bodyguard, since some distant parts outside the cities are not recommended for tourists or even locals. If possible speak to a trusted local.

Drugs

Cocaine manufactured in Colombia was historically mostly consumed in the US. With US consumption on the decline more and more of it is going to Western Europe instead. Local consumption is low. However, it can be seen in certain areas, particularly at dance clubs. Drugs and mafia have widespread a bad image of the country. Although the police and armed forces fight furiously to combat them, corruption and bribery have always won as high rank officers of the police and military forces have 'agreements' with the drug dealers. All Colombian governments have had strong commitments to fight drug production and trade, but all of them have failed. Current President Alvaro Uribe, with significant aid from the US government, has led in the last 4 years a policy of massively destroying drug plantations using chemical defoliants, but this has helped just a little against the organized drug dealership. Given Colombia's increasing aggression toward combating the drug trade, drug offenses are not treated lightly. If you are caught by the authorities possessing a controlled substance, expect serious problems. In general, many drugs are legal in Colombia, such as marijuana. Police will tolerate you having a few grams of this drug on your person, but you are flirting with danger if you carry much more. The real danger is consuming drugs as a foreigner in Colombia. If you are caught smoking marijuana on the street in most towns in Colombia, you will be in serious trouble. It is not always the police you have to deal with, but a vigilante. Often the vigilantes keep the peace in towns and they have a very severe way of dealing with problems.

Drink only bottled water outside the major cities. The water in major cities is safe. Anywhere else, never get drinks with ice cubes in them, and always make sure that the water you are served in restaurants comes from a bottle (they should open it in front of you). Doing anything else may result in health problems. If you're staying with relatives or friends especially you could ask for boiled water since families are used to having it around. In cities like Bogotá, Pereira, Manizales or Medellin, the quality of the water is optimum. In Pereira or Manizales for example, the water, besides being processed, comes from pristine natural sources near a nevado. In Bogotá, the water comes from the high mountains, 3,330 meters above sea level. In the coastal cities you had better watch what you drink in streets or beaches.