Stuff you need backpacking around Kenya

English is one of the two official languages and is spoken in the major cities as well as by those connected to the tourist industry. Outside of the large cities, Kiswahili (known in English as Swahili), is the other official language, and a few words of this language will go a long way. There's also Sheng (a slang of English, Kiswahili and local languages), spoken mostly by urban youths. Tribal languages, such as Maa spoken by the Maasai, are commonplace in more remote areas; however, you will usually be able to find a local who can speak Kiswahili – although in such areas a guide will be indispensable. Common Kiswahili Phrases: Jambo – Hello. This is pidgin Kiswahili – expect to be greeted with this if you look like a tourist. Kenyans never say Jambo to each other, although they may sometimes use the more grammatically pure "Hujambo?" to which the correct response is "Sijambo." Habari gani? – How are you? (lit. "Have you any news?") Mzuri sana – Fine, thank you (lit. "[I am] very good" Tafadhali – Please Asante sana – Thank you very much Asante hapana - No thank you Wacha - Stop it! Karibu – You're welcome / Welcome to ... Jina langu ni Nancy – My name is Nancy Shilingi ngapi? – How much does it cost? (lit. "How many shilling?") Kwa heri – Goodbye Pole pole (pronounced pol-ay pol-ay) – Slowly, slowly Hakuna matata – No problem (lit. "There are no problems"

Nairobi has some of the finest eating establishments in Africa. Many different cuisines and types of restaurants are available, from fast food to fancy. Many five-star hotels have attached fine restaurants, which are expensive but worth it. Many restaurants can be found downtown and in the areas of Westlands and Hurlingham. Among the many cuisines available are Brazilian, Chinese, Thai, Japanese, German and French restaurants. Fast food restaurants, mostly by South African chains (Steers, Nandos), are common in the larger urban areas.

• The Carnivore [2] A meal here is a must.

• Mandhari (Nairobi Serena in Uhuru Park) - a 5-star restaurant

• Haandi (The Mall in Westlands) - Indian

• Trattoria (Nairobi Central Business District) - Italian

• Mediterraneo (Junction Mall on Ngong Road)- Italian

• Pampas Churrascaria (Panari Center on Mombasa Road) - Brazilian

• Alan Bobbe's Bistro (Riverside Road) - French

• Slims (Lenana Rd) - American Bar/Grill/Steakhouse(excellent steaks)

• Furusato (Westlands) - perhaps the best sushi in Africa

• Tamambo (The Mall in Westlands) - very good international cuisine

• Siam Thai (Unga House, Westlands) - top notch Thai cuisine

• Kudeta (Bogani Road, Langata) - the best ribs in Nairobi and some of the best seafood too; n.b. may be closed and the road can be dangerous due to carjacking

• Porini (Mombasa) - Seychellois

• K'osewe's (Nairobi Central Business District) - traditional Kenyan meals

Kenyan beer is among the best you will ever taste. There is one major brewer whose flagship brand is Tusker Lager. Also try the Tusker Malt Lager. Another good lager beer is White Cap Lager. Imported beers are available in supermarkets and better hotels, but the prices are usually high. But imported Tanzanian beer like Kilimanjaro and Safari tend to be cheaper than even Tusker. In local bars, do not expect to pay more than around 75 Ksh for a double beer; anything more is a tourist rip-off. Many locals still cannot afford Tusker, so it is not as popular in Kenya as people think. Locals tend to drink even cheaper beers such as Senator, which is in a small red bottle and has an abnormally high alcohol content. It certainly tastes interesting. In some smaller towns, Allsopps beer is available. It is cheaper than Tusker and is arguably nicer. Also, do NOT buy in local gas stations or bars small plastic pouches of alcohol that were popular among the poorest citizens till their mass production ceased. They are sometimes not even filled with alcohol but with lacquer thinner or gasoline. The Kenyan government also passed a law criminalising their sale and production, so they should be avoided at all costs. Imported and local wines and spirits are widely available, and it is advisable to avoid local brews such as "changaa" and "busaa," which are illegal, unhygenically brewed and whose consumption has led to deaths on many occasions. There is an excellent selection of soft drinks especially from the Coca Cola stable, but try the Tangawizi brand of ginger ale. If you are in Nairobi, visit the Diamond Plaza in Highridge where you will get a range of freshly squeezed juices including tangerine, sugarcane and mango. In addition, most large malls in Nairobi and Mombasa have juice bars with a wide array of juices on offer.

• Simba Saloon (within the Carnivore in Langata)
• Gypsy (Westlands) - popular, if slightly seedy, bar that has become something of an institution in the past 15 years
• Casablanca (Lenana Road) - Upmarket Morrocan bar in Hurlingham, next to Osteria del Chianti restaurant, where you can relax by the fire outside or lie on huge raised sofas inside and smoke a hookah
• Mercury (ABC place, Westlands) - Swish cocktail bar that's a good place to start the evening
• The Moonflower (Palacina hotel, Dennis Pritt Road) - good place, popular with locals, for a quiet drink in a tasteful but cosy setting
• Outside Inn (Karen Road) - good steak and kidney pie and good for watching rugby matches
• The Rusty Nail (Dagoretti Road, Karen) - a must for an afternoon drink. It has the loveliest gardens of any bar/restaurant in Nairobi. Come for a Pimms, but the food can sometimes be a little hit and miss. Excellent sticky toffee pudding, though.
• Karen Blixen Coffee Garden (Karen Road) - good bar (and restaurant), popular with white Kenyans but can be a little empty these days.

Kenya is famous for many handicrafts, which are often the signature of a particular tribe or region. Look for Kisii stone (soap stone) carvings, Maasai jewelry, Mkonde wood carvings, Lamu chairs and batiks. The largest selection of handicrafts can probably be found at the Maasai Market in downtown Nairobi on Tuesdays, although expect plenty of hassling and hard bargaining. If you do not wish to go to the downtown Maasai Market, there is always the Village Market in Gigiri (Close to UNEP Headquarters) where a small number of the vendors go once a week to sell their ware. This is usually at a higher price because Gigiri is a plush suburb, so vendors price their goods accordingly. There is also a fine selection of stores selling craft goods in Mombasa, where the atmosphere is somewhat more relaxed. However, the best prices can be found by buying direct from the artisans in their villages in the countryside. Apart from the typical souvenirs such as wood carvings, it may be a good idea to buy one of the large books with photos of wildlife, nature, or culture. Do listen to and buy some local Kenyan music. Reggae is also quite a frequent feature of matatu journeys.