Getting around Malawi

Compared to its neighbors, the main roads in Malawi are in surprisingly good shape and travel times between major destinations should be reasonable. The volume of traffic is low and most people drive reasonably slowly. Road travel after dark is not advisable as road markings are poor to non-existent and not all cars have headlights. The Malawian police force have check points along many of the major roadways. By and large, they are looking for illegal activities and often wave tourists through. Expect to be stopped on occasion and asked where you are going. You should not have any problems if you are polite and have the correct documentation (passport, drivers licence, permission to use the vehicle, etc.) available if they ask.

By car

Unfortunatly many car rentals in Southern Africa do not allow you to enter Malawi with their cars. You might have the best chances if you rent a car in Zambia. Car rentals that allow you to enter Malawi:

• Livingstone 4x4, [3]. Located in Lusaka, Zambia.

• Kwenda, 17 Samantha Street; Strijdom Park; Randburg, Johannesburg, South Africa, ☎ +27 44 533 5717 (kwenda@iafrica.com), [4].

• Bushtackers, P.O. Box 4225, Rivonia, 2128, Johannesburg, South Africa, ☎ +27 11 465 5700 (bushtrackers@iafrica.com). Allow you to enter Malawi if you ask by email.

By boat

Traveling by boat is surely the most enjoyable mode of getting around in Malawi. The Ilala ferry runs north from Monkey Bay to Chilumba (Friday 10 am - Sunday 6:30 pm), and back southbound on the same route (departure Chilumba on Monday 2am, arriving at Monkey Bay on Wednesday at 2pm). Prices are rising with every year, but so is the ferry's reliability: some years back (before its privatization) it was perfectly normal to arrive a day late sometimes. The Ilala thus connects Likoma Island twice a week with the mainland, and the much closer Cobuè in Mozambique, respectively. Prices in January 2006 were about 6000 Malawian Kwacha from Monkey Bay to Likoma, and 1600 from Likoma to Nkatha Bay.

By plane

Air Malawi [5] has a monopoly on domestic flights and charges accordingly. They fly small propeller planes between the three big cities of Lilongwe, Mzuzu and Blantyre.

By bus

"Luxury" buses, medium-sized buses, and minibuses all service the country. They vary in comfort and price. Vehicle condition can be very poor and road accidents are relatively common. Generally, if police are going to hassle travelers, it will be individuals using these types of transportation.

By taxi

Taxis are available in Lilongwe, Blantyre and Zomba. Rental cars are also available in these towns. Costs vary depending on vehicle type, but expect a compact car to run about $60/day.