Stuff you need backpacking around Nepal

The official language of Nepal is Nepali. It's related to Hindi, Punjabi, and other Indo-Aryan languages, and is normally written with the Devanagari script (as is Hindi). While most Nepali speak at least some Nepali, a large percentage of the population has as their mother tongue another language, such as Tharu around Chitwan, Newari in the Kathmandu Valley, and Sherpa in the Everest area. As Asian languages go, Nepali has to be one of the easiest to learn, and the traveler making the effort isn't likely to make worse blunders than many natives with a different first language. Although Nepal was never a British colony, proximity to India has made English somewhat widespread among educated Nepalis. Nevertheless learning even a few words of Nepali is fun and useful, especially outside of the tourist district and while trekking. See: Nepali phrasebook

The Nepali national meal is daal bhaat tarkaari (spiced lentils, boiled rice, vegetable curry). This is served in most Nepalese homes and teahouses, two meals a day at about 10am and 7 or 8pm. If rice is scarce the grain part may be cornmeal mush called Ato, barley, or chapatis (whole wheat 'tortillas'). The meal may be accompanied by dahi (yogurt) and a small helping of ultra-spicy fresh chutney or achar (pickle). Traditionally this meal is eaten with the right hand. Curried meat -- goat or possibly chicken -- is an occasional luxury. Pork is eaten by some tribes but not by upper-caste Hindus. Since Hindus hold cattle sacred, beef is forbidden. Buffalo and yak are eaten by some but considered too cow-like by others. A variety of snacks may be available at other times. Tea, made with milk and sugar is certainly a pick-me-up. Corn may be heated and partially popped, although it really isn't popcorn. This is called "ka-ja", meaning "eat and run!" Rice may be heated and crushed, called "chiura", usually translated as "beaten rice". It can be eaten with yogurt, hot milk and sugar, or other flavorings. Fritters called 'pakora' and turnovers called "samosa" can sometimes be found, as can sweets made from sugar, milk, fried batter, sugar cane juice, etc. Be sure such delicacies are either freshly cooked or have been protected from flies. Otherwise flies land in the human waste that is everywhere in the streets, then on your food, and so you become a walking medical textbook of gastrological conditions. Many dishes are Tibetan in origin and not very spicy. Some dishes to look for include momos, a meat or vegetable filled dumpling - similar to Chinese pot-stickers -often served with beer, and Tibetan Bread and Honey a puffy fried bread with heavy raw honey, great for breakfast. One delicacy that you do not want to miss while in Nepal is the dried meat (it especially complements with beer/alcoholic beverages). Newars, an ethnic group, are connoisseur of great foods who lament that feasting is their downfall (whereas sexual indulgence is said to be the downfall of Paharis), so watch for Newari Restaurants. Some of them even come with cultural shows... a great way to enjoy good food while having a crash-course in Nepalese culture. In the Everest region try the local Sherpa dish of potato pancakes (rikikul). They are delicious eaten straight off the griddle and covered with dzo (female yak) butter or cheese. Pizza, Mexican, Thai and Chinese food, and Middle-Eastern food can all be found in the tourist districts of Kathmandu and Pokhara. If you are on a budget, sticking with local dishes will save a lot of money. Note that many small restaurants are not prepared to cook several different dishes; try to stick with one or two dishes or you will find yourself waiting as the cook tries to make one after another on a single stove.

Alcohol:

• Raksi is a clear and fiery liquid, similar to saki or cheap tequila. As anywhere else, taste and strength differs from each 'distillery', usually homemade. This is by far the cheapest drink in the country. It is often served on special occasions in small, unbaked clay cups that hold less then a shot. It works great as a mixer in juice or soda. Note that it may appear on menus as "Nepali wine".

• Jaand (Nepali) or chyaang (Tibetan) is a cloudy, moderately alcoholic drink sometimes called Nepali beer". While weaker than raksi, it will still have quite an effect. This is often offered to guests in Nepali homes. Unfortunately it is likely to be mixed with unsafe water.

• Beer in Nepal has seen a lively industry. Some local beer's are now also exported, and the quality of beer has reached quite international standards. International brands are popular in the urban areas.

• Cocktails can pretty much only be found in Kathmandu and Pokhara's tourist areas. There you can get watered-down "two for one drinks" at a variety of pubs, restaurants, and sports bars.

Tea: Although not as internationally famous as Indian brands, Nepal does in fact have a large tea growing industry. Most plantations are located in the east of the country and the type of tea grown is very similar to that produced in neighboring Darjeeling. Well known varieties are Dhankuta, Illam, Jhapa, Terathhum and Panchthar (all named after their growing regions).

• Chya is a tea drink with added milk and also sometimes containing ginger and spices such as cardamom.
• Suja. Salty tea made with milk and butter - only available in areas inhabited by Tibetans, Sherpas and a few other Himalayan people.
• Herbal teas. Most herbal teas are made from wild flowers from the Solu Khumbu region. In Kathmandu, these teas are generally only served in high class establishments or those run by Sherpas from the Solu Khumbu.

Water: Problematic due to lack of sanitary facilities and sewage treatment. It is safest to assume water is unsafe for drinking without being chemically treated or boiled, which is one reason to stick to tea.

Traveller's checks are your best bet outside of the major cities. There are banks in Kathmandu, Pokhara and in several other major cities that will allow you to retrieve cash from ATM or credit cards. You may be charged a service fee, depending on your bank. There are quite a number of ATMs now in those cities that are open round the clock. Although Indian currency is valid in Nepal, the Rs. 500 currency notes are not acceptable. Carrying 500-rupee notes in Indian currency is a punishable offence in Nepal. Be sure to keep all currency exchange and ATM receipts as they are required at the airport bank to convert back to your original currency. If you don't have them, they will refuse to convert your currency but they will suggest going to the Duty Free shop upstairs, eventhough it isn't a licensed money changer.