Getting around Norway

Norway is a big country and getting around, particularly up north, is expensive and time-consuming. The best way to see the Norwegian wilderness and countryside is by having access to your own vehicle. This way you can stop whereever you want, admire the view and venture onto smaller roads.

By plane

Norway's craggy coastline makes roads and trains slow, so domestic flights are very popular and, at least by Norwegian standards, competitively priced. The largest operators are Coast Air, SAS Scandinavian Airlines, Norwegian and Widerøe. It is especially in northern Norway, where towns and cities are fewer and further between, that air travel becomes almost obligatory to get from place to place. Planes between the small airports can be small, and they generally have several intermediate stops along the route to embark and disembark passengers. Unfortunately, it is also in these areas where ticket prices can be most expensive. Flights in southern Norway are cheaper than in northern Norway, and even though this area has better roads and rail, planes are generally faster than taking the train or bus. There are however no air routes between the cities within 100 km of Oslo, use the train or bus for this kind of travel. If you plan to fly to the many smaller towns in Northern or Western Norway you should consider Widerøes Explore Norway Ticket (Unlimited air travel for 14 days in summer for less than a full price return ticket.).

By train

Norges Statsbaner (NSB) connects major cities, as far north as Bodø, but there is no rail connection between the many cities on the coast (due to the hindrance by fjords). However, if you do travel by train, you'll travel through the most spectacular scenery in the world. Trains are generally well-maintained and comfortable with toilets, vending machines etc on board. You can buy a ScanRail card or a Norwegian Rail Passto travel cheap by train through Norway or Scandinavia. Unlike much of Southern Europe, Norway does not have a high speed rail system, except for the route between Oslo and its airport. Attempts at implementing high speed trains have been failures. (The sleek blue and silver high speed trains still operate, just not at high speed). Therefore, a journey between the two largest cities, Bergen and Oslo, still takes as much as six and a half to seven and a half hours. Most long distance (regional) trains leave several times a day. Don't forget you'll have to make a reservation on long distance trains (Oslo-Bergen, Oslo-Stavanger, Oslo-Kristiansand, Oslo-Trondheim, Trondheim-Bodø). This will cost you NOK 50 per person extra, if it's not already included in your ticket. As a rule of thumb, the trains cover a bit under 100 km in one hour and charge a bit over NOK 100 for the distance. Regional trains have ordinær wagons, which get you a chance to board but no more (unless you have a seat reservation, when that seat is guaranteed for you), and komfort wagons, which cost 75 kr extra but get you a guaranteed seat, coffee/tea, a newspaper (in Norwegian), a table and a power socket. Apart from the regular day trains, the longest stretches have night trains available. These are equipped with both regular seating carriages and sleeping carriages. In a regular seating carriage, which you can book at the same price as a regular day train, you will be given a blanket and maybe some earplugs, although the seats are a bit hard and not really designed for sleeping in. Sleeping carriages are perhaps more comfortable, but they are pretty expensive (750 NOK surcharge). The cabins have two bunks in them however, so if you are travelling as a couple you can share that surcharge. In eastern Norway, where cities are closer together, there are several people who make a daily commute, and hence many of these cities have more frequent train service with hourly departures much of the day. This includes the cities in the counties of Østfold, Vestfold as well as Gjøvik, Hamar and Lillehammer. In general, these trains do not have ordinær class seating reservations available, but it is still possible to upgrade to komfort. If you get even closer to Oslo, there are local trains which may have departures as often as every 30 minutes. Local trains never have seating reservations, nor do they have a first class section. Local trains also go between Bergen and Voss, Stavanger and Egersund and around Trondheim. Tickets can be, and should be, bought on the Internet for long-distance hauls. NSB runs a discount scheme where you pay NOK 199 or NOK 299, no matter what the distance of your travel is. However there are no stop-overs allowed, except for changing trains. When ordering your tickets, check if there's an option called "minipris" under "Ticket group". Then press the "Calculate price"-button, and you're probably in for a pleasant surprise. Another nice option is that when you pay the ticket, you can choose the option "henting i tog" under the "Ticket receivement" menu. This means that you just write down your carriage and seat number, and go on the train with some kind of ID. The ticket will be handed to you by the train steward. No queuing! There isn't first class on trains any more, but you can buy a "Komfort" ticket, then you get a little extra space, and (Norwegian) papers and coffee is included. If you get a sleeper-cabin and want to eat breakfast, you must order it ahead of departure. Generally, the trains are most crowded at the beginning and end of the weekend, and that means Friday and Sunday evening. If you try booking for these days at a late time, you may find all the cheap tickets sold out. Furthermore, the seat you reserve may be among the least desirable, that is, facing backwards, without recline, and facing towards and sharing the legroom with other passengers.

By ferry

Car ferries are an intregral part of the road network in coastal regions. Prices and time vary with the length of the crossing and amount of traffic, but expect 150 kr and 30 min as a standard fjord crossing with two adults in a normal car. Nearby camping sites and the ferries themself will often have timetables for other ferries in the region. Stretches with lots of ferries are desierable when bicycling, as the ferries are cheap for bicyclists and offer an often well-deserved break with a great view. In regions with lots of fjords and islands, that is along all the coast from Stavanger to Tromsø, an extensive network of catamaran expressboats shuttle between towns and cities, and connect islands otherwise accessible only with difficulty. Service and prices are comparable with trains. Check in advance if you want to bring a bicycle. One option particularly popular with tourists is the Hurtigruten ferry that hops along the coastline from Bergen all the way to Kirkenes, taking about a week for the whole journey. Cabins are expensive, but deck fares are more reasonable and there's even a 50% off discount with Inter Rail.

By bus

An extensive range of express buses connect cities all over Norway. Nor-way Bussekspress] and Timekspressen are the biggest operators, the latter even run the Oslo-Drammen-Kongsberg-Notodden service every hour, round the clock, every day. The bus even departs at midnight on New Year's eve... However, buses are not that frequent elsewhere. Outside the major bus lines, most towns are reachable by local bus. Access by bus also includes most national parks, although buses often leave just once a day, or possibly even more infrequently. Plan ahead, all schedules are to be found various places on the Internet. All major cities have some sort of city bus system, mostly quite good, but not always. Oslo also has local trains, metro and trams, Trondheim has local trains and one tram line, while Bergen has a trolley bus line and a funicular railway, as well as local trains. Stavanger/sandnes also has a local train system.

By car

Renting a car is very expensive, but can be essential for easy access to some of the more rural areas, although most areas have a good reliable bus service. If you live in Europe, consider bringing your own, but if you arrive during winter (November - April), be aware that winter tires are necessary and required by law. DO NOT try to drive without, even if you don't expect snow or ice. Some other points to heed:

• The Give Way rule is universal in Norway.(On small roads without the "Yellow Diamond" sign, all traffic has the "Right of Way" on to the road so BE AWARE!
• Some mountain roads are not wide enough for two cars to meet. Look for signs with a large M which indicates a passing point. Traffic going down hill has to give way to traffic going up hill even if that means reversing.
• Headlights are mandatory even during daylight. A country ID sticker on the back of the vehicle and an EN standard hazard waistcoat is required in the vehicle, reachable from the drivers seat. Spare bulbs are a good idea.
• Pedestrians expect you to stop for them at marked crossings and you may be fined if you don't.
• Speeding is taken very seriously and even 6kmh over the limit can result in a large "on the spot" fine. There are also many unmarked grey speed camera boxes on all roads that face the traffic. Normal road speed is 80kmh/50mph.
• Moose (Elg) can run onto the highway at dusk and dawn so take extra care if driving at those times.
• Gas is very expensive, starting at US$6.66/gallon

By thumb

Hitchhiking in Norway is best on the the routes from Oslo-Trondheim (E6), Oslo-Kristiansand (E18) and Kristiansand-Stavanger (E39). Hitchhiking is not that common in Norway and not recommended and you need to understand that you are taking a small but potentially serious risk. Travel with someone and let a contact know where you are going to. When waiting make sure to stand in a place where the vehicles can see you and have a safe opportunity to stop. Ferry ports and main fuel stations are good places to try.